Dior Homme’s designer Kris Van Asche showed his collection in an echoing, paste-white chamber, and white was the dominant color for the second season in a row. Van Assche called Dior Homme Spring 2012 Menswear Less and More. The collection was carried out mainly of rich fabrications, which included silk taffeta and lambskin. Jackets arrived in a variety of shapes (a thin-lapelled mod version, buttoned low; a shirt jacket; a sleeveless gilet blazer) and pants came in the aquiline, loose, cropped style. The lines are liquid, contained here and there with high-buttoning closers resembling little silver rings. They’re the anchors of military buttons, usually hidden on the garment’s underside.
Interest in craft and the muchness of less has been one of fashion’s recent preoccupations. The leather-detailed jackets and T-shirts, in fact, had a distinct whiff of Celine. Nonetheless, they had an austere beauty, their fat burned off. The problem is—as the problem has been—that Van Assche’s obsession is calcifying into a credo. With the soft, wide-brimmed hats he showed (similar to those last season), his boys, who fluted by like fluttering jellyfish, began to resemble acolytes of an evangelistic sartorial sect. Still, the collection looks strict, with no excessive luxuries and fanciful color that dominate in many other eminent houses’ menswear for spring 2012.